I created this white linen Norse underdress for HRM Helene of Avacal.
I was able to use one of her existing underdresses to create the pattern. The underdress consists of two separate pieces, the front and the back. Seams are located on the shoulders, and along the sides. The pattern includes built-in gores.
Because of time constraints I chose to use a serger to sew the underdress together, but did finish the cuffs, neckline, and hem by hand.
I did some basic research on what type of decorations would be used on Norse underdresses. It appeared that the really impressive embroidery would be reserved for the overdress (apron dress), while more practical embroidery was used on an underdress. The herringbone stitch was commonly used as it could be decoration as well as a stitch that could be used for hemming. One of Helene’s favorite colors is red, so I decided to use red linen embroidery floss for the herringbone.
Close up of the sleeve embroidery